Category Archives: Brand Spotlight

Helmut Lang-uid

Dope Music, Fluid Flow, & Comfy Clothes

Helmut Lang Runway Spring/Summer 2020

Helmut Lang Mens + Womens S/S 2020 Runway Show

Spacious, Stark blanc en blanc room with pops of colored clothing…fluidly floating thru Time and Space

scott Mackenzie-Streetzblog 2021

Spacious, Stark blanc en blanc room with pops of colored clothing…fluidly floating thru Time and Space. The Helmut Lang Runway show for the Spring/Summer 2020 season provides a nicely mixed soundtrack of techno tracks, with models perfectly choreographed to flow through the intersections of time and space provided.

Giving us high end luxury clothing that looks super comfortable to wear indoors and out. For both Women and Men. Trust me, Helmut Lang clothes are well constructed, made of high end fabrics, sewed to perfection. Flawless execution of fabrication deluxe. Below are the Highlights and Lowlights of the Helmut Lang Runway Show.

HIGHLIGHTS

  • The Music. Flow of it. Techno pulse of it. Vibe of it, to fit the Venue
  • The multi pocketed Olive green cropped jackets
  • The Comfy, Fluid, feel of the clothing. It all felt just so comfortable. Flowing, Swirling, thru the cross Trafficked runway
  • The Army Green/Olive colors
  • Use of straps (Both Men’s and Women’s)
  • Silver on White
  • Blanc en Blanc setting. Let the clothes do the walking and talking
  • Bright Yellow. Yep, Even I liked the Color yellow popping through the stark white background
  • The Light Green Men’s Suit
  • Bright Yellow + Neon Pink Women’s dresses
  • The Helmut Lang Quality of the Clothing

LOWLIGHTS

  • Too much of the color White
  • Not enough of the color Black. (Most of the best HL clothes are black or at least Gun Metal/Nickel colored)
  • Da Vinyl clothing
  • Beige/Brown. Two of the worst clothing colors other than White and Aqua
  • The Faded blue Jeans Jacket and Pants. Just did not fit the rest of the higher end line of the Brand

Y-3, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto, Daniel Patrick and Chapter are streetzblog favorites featuring mostly darker shades of clothing, solidly made tailoring, to wear for many years to come. Over the last 3 years, Helmut Lang has become a go to favorite along the same lines as the brands listed above.

In December 2018, I had finished up a lunch with my friend at a super-good vegan joint near Union Square, NYC. I figured I’d head to Soho on Foot. Was a lot longer and colder than I expected. But, I landed at the Helmut Lang Sample sale. I do LOVE a good sample sale. And this was Perf for me. Almost the entire selection was my all time Favorite color-Black!

I was in that sample sale for like 2 hours. Trying on things, snagging & swooping upon shirts and pants as soon as someone put them back, and putting some back myself as I was on a Bit of a budget. Socializing, touching and feeling each and every piece of these high end quality items. And waiting for an XL or even a L to appear in the Hoodie section. I ended up with 5 items: Black Calf Skin Luxe-Life Kicks, Perfectly tailored Shorts, One T shirt and a pair of Gaberdine Trousers with crisp cool exquisite buttons on the bottoms of the legs. All at 70-80% off retail. Hanging out and purchasing these items, I became an instant fan of the Brand.

Here’s a picture of the Helmut Lang Luxe-Life Kicks. Super comfortable in the color black…of course:

Recently (January 2021) before going on my 90 day no shoes no clothes purchasing cleanse. In January 2021, I re-found Helmut Lang during their Surplus Sale. Was just like a NY Sample sale, yet on line. Not quite as much fun, no hanging with people, no touching the fabrics, no trying on clothes and shoes. But I did know the quality would be there. Scored some pretty dope pieces yet again. A long Sleeve Army Green Modal Cotton (The kind of cotton that is smooth and silky on the skin) A really nice pair of 3m striped pants (Black with silver stripe), a pair of Gun Metal Colored shorts similar to the sample sale, just a bit more fitting and of course a T shirt. Budget was under $225, retail was over $1050. SCORE!

Here’s the Helmut Lang F/W 2020 Pants with Silver 3M Stripe:

I’ve got my eyes on the New Helmut Strap joggers and the Strap knee length shorts. Hope they have enough stock for a sample or surplus sale on these 2 items. Maybe in May. And Maybe in May, we can shop in store again? Hope, the in-store experience comes back sooner than later. I really cant go anywhere nowadays, I like to touch the materials too much, and peruse for way longer than the usual customer. Thus, it’s way too risky of an endeavor for me in March 2020 thru May? 2021.

If you want to see the new goods or the current sale, check Helmut Lang out right here

See you on the Streetz…blog!

Rick Owens F/W 2021/22 PFW

Rick Rocks the Dystopian Athleisure Goth

Place: Venice, Italy Date of Show: January 2021 Name of Show: Gethsemane

Paris Fashion week is back and so is Rick Owens. Gone are the abstract art interpretations of his Menswear show. And Back, what he does best. Mostly Black colors with some Dark greys and bits of contrasting whites. This show is what you would expect to see if you thought of Rick Owens the Brand.

Models parading through the smoke and fire in the dystopian VIP line. Lots of nice black clothing. Some dark greys. Slits and slashes, bit of bondage. If you think Rick Owens, this is the show for you. Even the music, may have been repetitive but matched the mood of the clothing line and presentation perfectly. The music and show had a nice Cynamatic style, not to brash, precision flow, right on target.

Even had an ode to Dracula/Vampires with the bellowing black capes. This is how I prefer to see a Rick Owens show. Doing what he does best-Hi-End Dystopian Athleisure Goth. Vibe of show, clothes at show, music, all perfectly match the Rick Owens brand. Well done. A+ Four Stars.

Highlights:

  • The gathering area prior to walking the Streetz/Runway. Dope like a VIP line for a nightclub
  • The Smoke/the Fire/the Ambiance
  • The Setting and Music worked well together
  • The Black and Grey Colors of the Clothing. Rick’s best work is done in BLACK. He does not need to change that!
  • Bondage straps
  • Precision Holes and cuts in the fabrics
  • Mask Wearing
  • The Finale

I liked this show so much, there aren’t many Lowlights. But because it’s the streetzblog tradition to provide the two, here are the only lowlights.

Lowlights:

  • The out of place abstract purple puffer jackets
  • The white underwear (briefs) Just was not needed and didnt fit any of the rest of the show
  • Chunky high heels for men. Just not a fan of them
  • The light blue, once again did not fit with the rest, but there wasnt much of it, so its ok

Great Show and Glad that there was a Paris Fashion week 2021. Maybe next year, I can visit in person.

See you on the Streetz…blog

YY Fall/Winter 2021/22 Menswear PFW

Fast & Furious x XLarge Collab

Fast & Furious F9 screeches to Theaters (soon)

The Fast and The Furious franchise continues with Fast & Furious 9 AKA F9 set to release in May 2021. Hopefully on the Big Screen. This set of movies is really only awesome when you watch it on the Big Movie Screen. Or you can watch the 4.5 hour F&F on TBS and not go to bed till 2am. LOL Actually not that funny, I’ve done it a couple times and had lots of trouble waking up for work the next day. And I have probably seen Fast & the Furious Tokyo Drift 12x. I like the music, vibe, fashion, style, cars, and of course the drifting. What’s your favorite F&F movie? Let us know in the comments section. (Author’s Note: I own a black Mitsubishi Lancer from watching the Fast and the Furious movie Franchise)

Photo by Devon Rockola on Pexels.com

F9 is set in London, Georgia (hmm) and Thailand. Looks like a mix of F&F, Mission Impossible with a bit of James Bond mixed in. The star Power is pretty impressive: Vin Diesel, John Cena, The Rock, Jordana Brewster, Paul Walker, Tyrese, Michelle Rodriguez, Ludacris, Charleze Theron, Kurt Russel, Eva Mendes, Lil’ Bow Wow, Even Lucas Black (NCIS) from Tokyo Drift is back!

Photo by chris howard on Pexels.com

AND from the looks of the trailer below, Sung Kang/Han Lue returns from the dead in F9. He’s one of the most fun characters, but I swear he died in Tokyo Drift, but keeps making appearances every couple of years. Last time, he made an appearance, I think they said it was a “prequel”. This time, who knows where he came from? Hope they just think we forgot and he’s just back IRL and not just a mirage, vision or nightmare of Dom’s. I like Han, he usually shows up just in time to provide some snacking levity, right when the movie gets too intense.

There’s even one rumor circulating on the net that Han’s body was taken by Eteon who used Highly advanced Cyber-Punk enhancements to transform him into a living, “breathing” import car driving, fighting machine. That doesn’t quite sound like the Han we know. We’ll just need to wait to find out how Han is back again when F9 comes out either on our TV or hopefully at the theater.

And for those who may have forgotten Letty passed away in Fast & Furious. She was awakened from her “death” in another movie with a bit of amnesia. You know, it might just be like the Batman and Spiderman movies. Time doesn’t really exist, it just morphs around. Let’s just hope that theaters can hang in there long enough for James Bond and F9. The movie theater is the only and best place to watch these two action packed, well-renowned franchises. BTW: The Matrix 4 brings back some people who we thought died, but the Matrix world is already rigged for time and space not to exist, it’s already in the 10th dimension of reality.

In the 1990’s on Lexington parallel to Broadway in Soho and Noho, existed a nice row of stores: Supreme, Triple Five Soul and XLarge. Back then, it was near impossible to catch a cab from Soho back to Mid-town. So, I’d find myself wandering in the near freezing December temperatures, in and out of these stores and others mostly for warmth. Little did I know that I should have been buying up inventory to sell in the lucrative Vintage clothing era of 2021.

I do still have one T from Triple Five Soul, I gave away my XLarge flannel, mainly cause it was too Big on me and I never bought any Supreme. I didn’t really felt safe in there back then. Maybe my age or was all in my imagination.

Get Fast, Get Furious with XLarge Hoodies and T’s

The Iconic Lexington Ave NYC store, XLarge, now in Japan, has teamed up with The Fast and the Furious for a 2021 collab collections of hoodies, pocket T’s and long sleeved shirts.

Here’s the listing of what you can expect from this collab:

  • Dom Toretto/Vin Diesel in full race ready mode
  • Suki from 2 Fast 2 Furious
  • Twinkie/Lil Bow Wow and Sean Boswell/Lucas Black staring at the over the top bright green Hulk car
  • Scene from Tokyo Drift a bit prior to Sean tearing apart Han’s car attempting to race the Drift Master

The Fast & the Furious x XLarge Collab drips and drops this Saturday (1/23/21) AT THE XLARGE stores in Japan and at the ZOZOTOWN on-line shop. Pix of clothing courtesy of XLarge Japan and Hypebeast

See you on the Streetz!

You only know my Name, not my Story

IN JULY 2020, THERE ARE MANY NICE CLOTHES, BUT NO WHERE TO WEAR THEM!

Balmain Menswear F/W 2019-20

         HIGHLIGHTS:

  • Dope Sunglasses
  • Can’t go wrong with Blacks, Greys and Whites
  • Preppy Militant
  • The Music Rocks especially Fury Weekend’s Industrialized Pink Floyd Tune
  • Fits the vibe of the World in July 2020
  • Inclusion + Diversity
  • Horizontal stripes
  • The Black pants with the thick White stripe down the side
  • Elevated Dr. Who + John Lennon specs
  • That Hoodie! You know the which one!!
  • Specialty Slogans with meaning
  • Olivier’s Haircut and Outfit
  • The finale

         LOWLIGHTS:

  • The Flapping Grey Belts and Gray Accoutrements
  • The Funky Black material for the vampy Blade inspired looks. Seems too thin and a bit tacky
  • Frilly, Textured, Flowery, Material
  • Lack of Ability to Spot the Celebs in Attendance

NYC Shopping Guide December 2019

The Streetzblog Annual HOT list for NYC Shopping (As of 12.22.19)

As usual, this year was a whirlwind. Stayed up most nights till 4am. Slept till Noon or 2pm. Then headed back out on the town.  Some of the list is similar to past years and some are new for December 2019.  Been listing the HOT list almost every year since 2011. Check some of the older posts to see additional shopping tips, trends and things to do.

Street Heat 2018 

What’s Lit NY 2017

Spring Fashion Trends 2015

Streetz of New York 2012

Streetz of New York 2011

The 2019 Lit List

  1. Barneys: Madison Ave and 60th St. Uptown, NY.   This was part sad and part awesome. If yo get a chance go to either the uptown or the downtown Barney’s. They are going out of business and prices drop daily. The day I was there it was 35% off everything  with an additional 20% off taken at the register. Scored a pair of 424 Black and Orange Kicks and a pair of pretty expensive pants form Ovadia & Sons. Saw a guy get a $1,500 bomber jacket for $166.  I was looking at it, but didn’t price check it, so if you go, ask them the price. *Sacks 5th will now tend to the Barney’s leftovers. 
  2. Urban Necessities:  Broadway and Houston Soho, NY.  @twojskicks   I see this place on my IG almost everyday in Hawaii, always looks like they are having fun and wearing awesome kicks, so needed to check it out.  If you’ve seen any street wear or kicks on the internet or IRL, stop by this place and they are bound to have it.  Tons of Yeezy Boosts, Rare Air and Jordan 1’s.  With lots of fresh clothes from the likes of Travis Scott and Off-White. I asked for a certain Travis Scott T and within minutes they had my size in my hands. Great pricing too.  It usually runs $130-$150. Got it for a flat $100 bucks with no tax. Pro Tip: If you buy clothes in NY, anything under $200 is not taxed. They do this to support the Fashion Industry. Make sure you get the deal on Clothes, it is available to everyone.  Under $200 no tax, serious. 
  3. 375 Showroom Sample Sale:  36 Ludlow down the street from Katz Deli. @375Showroom  This is the real deal.  Off-White, Heron Preston, 424, and Anti Social Social Club.  They have it all. And many products brand new in the bag.  Prices were around 60% off retail with some even better deals to be found. Quality of goods-A+.  Not sure how long the store will be around, if it is, go there. If not, check 375 showroom on IG and make an appointment.  They have the goods! My score was a ASSC Orange lettering on Black hoodie. I should of bought ALL my Christmas presents at this Sample Sale!
  4. SNKRFLEA: Broadway between Grand and Howard, near Canal Street Soho, NY. @SNKRFLEA Streetwear store with really nice folks running the shop. Hung out here for about an hour.  The 2 owners/employees are super cool and know their stuff. Travis Scott, Off-White clothes and kicks. Reasonably priced.  They had some Travis Scott Kicks at about $600. Same kicks you can see going for $1200 other places.  Cool people, stop by and say Streetzblog sent ya.
  5. Cafe Grumpy:  89 42nd Street on Lexington Midtown, NY. Near/At Grand Central Station.  Some of the best tasting coffee in the nation. Each time I went here, the coffee had a big full bodied flavor. Hard to explain, but it wasn’t watery, was always full and tasty. Get there early if you want their specialty of 2019-the Turmeric Coffee.  They also have some cool merch & Matcha, Peach Nectar and Strawberry Lush. My favorite part of this place is they let you order however you like and they filled my expresso up to the top with Oat Milk. A streetzblog recommend with 5 stars!
  6. Canal Street Market: 265 Canal St. Canal Street off Broadway, Chinatown, near Soho, NY.  Clothes + Jewels Pop-Up and food emporium.  Some nice vintage clothing and jewelry options, interesting food and bubble tea, festive wi-fi/socializing area and free + clean bathrooms.  And I had the best tasting coffee ever.  It was a Maple Salted Latte.  Was the best coffee I’ve ever tasted. I think it was the salt that made it rock!
  7. Dover Street Market:  Lexington & 30th St. Midtown, NY. This has been on the Lit List for 5+ years. Been going here every year since they opened up shop. December is a great time to visit since most of the clothing and some shoes are 50% off.  Go to every floor if you can. head to the top first, it’s where you may be able to pick up a sought after Supreme hoodie or shirt. Then make your way thru the various floors including the:  GDG, Nike x DSM, Various High End Designer lables, down to the basement where the T’s are located. A MUST go to spot when in NYC.  And yes, it is located in the middle of nowwhere on Lexington near 30th.  
  8. WICKED-The Musical: 222 West 51st St at the Gershwin Theater. Broadway and 51st.  The BEST experience ever.  From Start to finish, Wicked will have you mesmerized. I scored some 3rd row seats day before the show. Nicely priced.  Was one of the best shows, events, things I have ever seen.

      9. Sacks Fifth Avenue: 611 5th Ave. Near 50th and Rockefeller Center Midtown, NY. Not only do they have the best window display in town, but December brings you their designer sale.  This year, I scored Y-3. And make sure you check out their newely revamped shoe and sneaker area. It is HUGE! Time to Unwrap the savings!

     10. Bloomingdale’s: Uptown and Downtown.  Many more HOT brands than the Hawaii location. It’s not even the same store as in HI.  So much more!

     11.  Uncle Pauls Pizza: 70 Vanderbilt near 45th Midtown, NY. In the city that never sleeps, the city seems to be going to bed earlier this year.  Thus, you have Uncle Pauls Pizza open till at least 1am or later.  Great food and open when lots of places around mid town are closed.

     12.  ETC Eatery:  20th East 46th Street Midtown, NY. Open 24/7 Monday thru Saturday.  The freshest and sweetest Mango in the country. I had Mango almost every day this year. Also have all the necessities needed at 2am. Sandwiches, Pop, snacks, toothpaste. With many Deli’s disappearing due to high rent. ETC is still rockin’ it all day and night. 

     12. Madison Square Garden: 31st and 8th Ave or 4 Pennsylvania Avenue Midtown, NY.  Love the energy here. Rangers or Knicks, either one is a nice experience. This year, I saw the Knicks play some team from Milwaukee. Even though they lost big time, it was fun. Spike Lee was especially upset this night, was fun to watch him in action. And in addition to shooting shirts upwards, they threw them down on the crowd, which was quite funny!!   #Knicksmas #nykmsg

     14.  Meyers of Keswick: 634 Hudson. Near Greenwich St. and close to Carrie Bradshaw’s apartment Greenwich Village, NY. If you need anything from England, they have it here.  I get the Christmas pudding and hard sauce.  They also have Lion Bars, Smarties, Robinia, fresh meat pies, English Beans and much, much more. A little hard to find via mapquest. Well worth the trip.  Can be crowded on the Weekends and close to the Bigger holidays.

     15.  Adidas Downtown: 610 Broadway near Houston Soho, NY.  I like this store more than the uptown version. Lots of inventory. Different gear and goods than on the app or on-line. Sometimes you will get lucky and find some sold out deals too. friendly staff and located in prime Soho real estate location.

     16. Nike NYC: 650 5th Avenue near 50th and 51st Streetz. Uptown, NY.  This store is amazing.  Last year, I customized some Jordan 1’s. This year, they had an interactive Kyrie Irving game.  You entered the see through court, put on a pair of Kyrie’s Kicks in any size you need.  Then dribbled a real ball on a real court to shoot a lay up or make a dunk. The store recorded the vid for you and then you could post it on Social Media.  This store is a must see for anyone visiting or living in NYC. With that we end the Lit List for 2019. Mic is dropped!

      17.  Modell’s at Penn Plaza: 430 Seventh Ave. Midtown NY.  A must visit after any game at MSG.  I go every time I see a Knicks or Rangers game. It’s just fun to go inside especially if the team wins. Everyone is in post game jovial mood + and it’s an exciting social experience. In 2019, not only was it fun, but they had some what I would call BEYOND deals! Things you see on the internet for big bucks going for Super-Cool deals:   $10 Majestic T’s and $25 various teams including Lakers, Knicks and Pelicans Hoodies. I scored a $100 Yankees Jersey made out of that nice Climalite material for a mere $25!! Best deal of the trip.  And it doesn’t have some random player on the back.  Totally classic, cool, comfy and will last a lifetime. SCORE!

See you on the Streetz…blog!

Y-3 Springs into Summer 2019

Y-3 Fits on Point

Y-3 Runway Show Menswear Spring/Summer 2019

Sunday June 24, 2018 Paris, France-Musee des Arts Decoratifs

Y-3 is the sporty athlesuire brand designed by Yohji Yamamto in conjunction with Adidas. They tend to stick true to their black and white color palette, with hints of various colors each season.  For SS 2019 we see some reds, greens, blues and a tannish beige/Off White. Y-3 is one of Streetzblog’s favorite brands. If we save up $$ for something, it’s usually Y-3, Rick Owens, Off-White or Alexander Wang x Adidas.

There’s plenty of time to save up, the clothes in this video will be ready to wear in Spring/Summer of 2019.

Y-3 enjoys the greatness of being able to work with ateliers in both Tokyo and Germany. Bringing the best of both Countries together.  This collection shows the specialty cuts from Tokyo/Yohji Yamamoto with innovative texture of clothing from Germany/Adidas. One of the Hot, New fabrics is used right now (June 2018) by athletes and will be available for all of us to wear in 2019. It’s the lightest Gore-Tex ever made entitled Shakedry.

The Biggest plus from the show are the clothes are getting back to baggy. Flowing, yet crisp Silhouettes. Some leggings inside of bellowing shorts and wide leg pants, which takes us one step further away from the Skinny Jean Fad.  And the Kicks are very nice and comfy with the rad Y-3 logo ever present.

This Runway show needs to be watched 2-5x to get the full effect. It’s hard to decide whether the clothes or the kicks are the Star. Both looks are on my Most Wanted List. If you look close at the clothes, you may see the new Y-3/Skull logo. It’s there, just a bit hard to find.  See what you think of the clothes and kicks and let us know in the comments section. And if you can’t wait till Spring/Summer 2018, you can get some nice deals (up to 30% off) on the y-3 stacked logo, limited edition James Harden collection or some nice Bashyo’s here at Y3.com

Below are some of the Best looks from the Runway. Pictures courtesy of Vogue.com See more pix here at (Vogue.com)  Shakedry name supplied by Vogue and WWD.

 

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See you on the Streetz!

51PERCENT-Bondage

51PERCENT S/S 2018

Korean Fashion Brand-51PERCENT brings us a pretty perfect pair of BBP’s-Black Bondage Pants.  The Fit below serves up some Pretty Nice-Strapped, Zipped, Fresh & Clean BBP’s

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From the same 51PERCENT collection we see a lot of Matrix the Movie Influence. Some nice pix from their LOOKBOOK are below:

To see more or get some of the Unconscious Desires S/S 2018 Collection, click Here

See You On The Streetz…Blog!

Y-3 to be You and Me

Y-3 Spring/Summer 2018 Runway Show

Y-3 is Slammin’ the Jams on the Spring/Summer 2018 Runway!  Here’s the Highlights:

Simple yet Sweet Stacked Logo items-Jackets, shorts, shirts, socks & backpacks

Lots of Black & White

Lots of Luxe-Life Kicks fixes! The Hi-Top Bashyo, Boosted Kusari &  Boosted Saikou. Style and comfort. Elevated Next Level Shizzems

Solid Confidence on the Runway gives you & me EXTRA Swagger on the Streetz

The BASHYO with stacked logo in Black, White and Red. Immediately raises your Clout Level. On the Street, in the Office, at the Club

Tailored Baggy Silhouettes = More Comfort on the Black-Top  or in the Board-Room

Energetic, Youthful, Fierce, Solid, Swagger

On Trend-Wear Y-3 Bold or Understated. The Choice is Yours

Nice Fit

Available now (3/18/18) Here

Exuding Elegance in Le Cite De La Mode

Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 2018-19

Paris Fashion Week:  March 2, 2018

One of my goals is to make it to NY Fashion week. After seeing the Paris shows in Feb/Mar 2018, I’m thinking a better goal is to make it to Paris Fashion week. This show is from the Paris portion of the Feb/Mar Quad Fashion Foray.  New York, London, Milan & Paris. And it is Exquisite. Yes, Paris is the goal! Or as YY calls it on the IG post: the Cite de la Mode

Only doing Highlights today.  The show doesn’t really have any low-lights other than the color brown…LOL   I’ll stick with the 2018 easy to read, super-quick attention span style of writing with the fun fonts, colors, bolding etc.

Highlights:

Flowing, Graceful, & Peaceful 

Color Palette:  Black, Dark Grey, A Bit of White and some Brown

A bit of Bowie influence on the Make-Up side of things. Rectangles over one eye

Asymmetric, Bulky-Fluidity, Moving like a slowed down silent movie

Amazing hairdo’s

Classic, Yet a la mode, On-trend, Traditional YY

Comfy Kicks in Highs and Lows-Extra Nice Boots, Cool Tennies in Black and White

Did I say lots and lots of the color Black! YAH!!

Check out the crowd, it’s like they’re frozen in time, in a trance like state! I don’t think I saw a single person move the whole show. Amazing.  And by the looks of the crowd, seems like they took their iPhones from them before the show?  Maybe?

What do you think of the show? This season’s Runway shows?  See you on the Streetz!
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